There’s something that feels a bit illegal about wandering around the grounds of a castle at night when all the visitors have gone home. The atmosphere is a little eerie, but you really get a sense of what it must have been like to live within the walls of these vast estates in years gone by.

At least, that’s how I felt when I spent the night in Leeds Castle in Kent, often known as the Castle of Queens due to the many female monarchs who called it their home. Its rather confusing name comes from Saxon ruler Led or Leed, who laid the foundations for what would become Leeds Castle, building a wooden structure on two islands in the middle of the River Len.

This humble wooden abode was soon replaced by a stone fortress, and over the years it grew into the spectacular castle that then became the home of Henry VIII’s first wife, Catherine of Aragon. But with that rich history comes tales of hauntings, the most popular local legend being ghostly sightings of two black dogs, said to be connected to a former resident alleged to have practiced witchcraft.There are also tales of a spirit in a long flowing dress wandering around the rooms.

But I’m happy to report, no such spirits interrupted my sleep, and I managed to get a solid eight hours of snooze in a comfy four-poster bed. Our room was part of the Stable Courtyard, and in addition to a gorgeous bed with a canopy, it had a soaking tub, views of the lake, and a minibar stashed with local treats. Definitely worth risking a haunting for.

Leeds Castle also offers rooms in its Maiden’s Tower, once the home of Catherine of Aragon’s ladies-in-waiting, as well as cottages and riverside lodges which sit on the water’s edge. During the day, visitors can access the castle and grounds, and you’ll spot lots of families braving the weather and enjoying walks through the beautifully landscaped gardens, but once the gates close, the atmosphere is still and quiet.

In the evening, we had dinner at the Castle View restaurant. Set just across the river from the castle, it has a huge floor to ceiling window that allows you to see it lit up at night. There’s an outside terrace which I imagine is spectacular in the summer months as you’d get to watch the sun go down at dinner time.

The restaurant’s menu has simple, cosy classics with a focus on seasonal ingredients and local produce. We were tempted by dishes from fish and chips and homemade pies, with my husband eventually choosing a ribeye steak – which was ‘perfectly’ medium rare according to him – and myself opting for the special of cod with chorizo and a butterbean stew. The fish was just the right amount of flaky and light, working well with the hearty beans.

We also enjoyed a bottle of Pinot Noir from Wildshark Vineyard, which is just a couple of minutes from the castle. My experiences of English wine have not always been great, and I’m still bitter about a very pricey bottle that tasted like fizzy vinegar, but this bottle of red wine may have changed my mind. It was smooth, fruity, and most importantly, I didn’t get my usual red wine headache after drinking half a bottle.

After a cosy, ghost-free night, we enjoyed breakfast in the restaurant, which includes a decent continental buffet plus cooked options including a full English and eggs royale. Once you check out, you are still free to enjoy the castle for the day, so we loaded up the car and got our big coats on to go for an explore.

While the castle is centuries old, its last private owner was Lady Olive Baillie who is credited with restoring much of the historic building in the 1920s. She also turned it into something of a party spot, with the elite of transatlantic society, politics, and culture among its famous guests. From Winston Churchill to Charlie Chaplin, many famous faces have stayed here. Lovers of vintage fashion and style will enjoy wandering around Lady Baillie’s rooms where items from her beaded gowns to stylish 1920s shoes and record player are on display. If you’re a fan of Downton Abbey, you’ll definitely pick up on those vibes.

Back in the grounds we tackled, and got lost in, the hedge maze. In my defence, it was drizzling with rain, and I probably would have had more patience on a sunny day. Admitting defeat, we instead went to see the birds of prey centre, which included beautiful owls and eagles, and saw some fun family-friendly stuff to do such as adventure playgrounds. There’s even a fake beach where kids can build sandcastles. Again, definitely one for the summer to-do list. And with a 9-hole golf course overlooking the castle, it’s surprising how much there is to do just steps from your room.

A stay at Leeds Castle is an unforgettable experience. It’s not often you get to wake up on the grounds of a castle, and staying overnight makes you feel part of its history. The staff at the castle are amazing, from the friendly welcome at check-in to the efficient, cheerful restaurant service and patient guides who talked us through its history, its clear that the castle is in good hands in its latest incarnation.

Rooms at the Stable Courtyard start from £134 per night. Find out more and book at leeds-castle.com.

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