I visited market town home to TV legend with high street full of independent shops | UK | Travel

Christopher Sharp visited Moreton-in-Marsh (Image: Christopher Sharp)
A pretty market town in the Cotswolds must attract an enormous number of tourists – and I mean truly enormous – judging by the sheer volume of hopsitality venues. Moreton-in-Marsh is full of them; virtually every shopfront is either a bakery, café, pub, or artisan bistro. This is reflected in conversations with the locals, of whom there are just over 5,000 (5,015 according to the 2021 Census).
Philip, 53, a cellarman at the local brewery, remarked: “It’s more touristy stuff. You don’t get so much. The old tour shops gone, the old card’s shop gone. Some of the shops have disappeared, definitely got more touristy. It’s got pluses and negatives. Got a supermarket and the market’s still here.”
When asked whether he ever encounters the town’s most celebrated resident – Great British Bake Off star Prue Leith – Philip simply responded: “I don’t.”
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The interior of The Bell Inn (Image: The Bell Inn)
But it’s not just the coffee shops that I was impressed by on my visit to the area – the High Street on New Road is full of small independent shops with not a single famous brand name or large high street change. They were seemingly positioned every six feet and are certainly a shoppers’ dream.
As I ventured around, I also passed a bustling market offered trinkets, carpets, fruit, vegetables and antiques.
The majority of establishments, as Phil noted above, are coffee shops and cafés. Selecting somewhere to dine was no straightforward task, but for those fretting about the high street’s survival, Moreton-in-Marsh appears to have little to worry about, particularly with a sizeable Co-Op and Tesco Express sitting alongside the independent coffee shops and pubs.

Christopher’s meal at The Bell Inn (Image: Christopher Sharp)
Speaking of pubs, there is one very special one in Moreton and its where I penned this piece. The Bell Inn was once frequented by J.R.R. Tolkien and reportedly inspired The Prancing Pony Inn that features in The Lord of the Rings.
Without wishing to Tolkien the micky (apologies…) by drawing any comparison with that literary giant, there are certainly far worse locations to find oneself than a pub crowned The Pub of the Year in the North Cotswold Campaign for Real Ale Pub of the Year competition.
Inside, the atmosphere is quintessentially local; a lengthy rope allows dogs to wander freely, regulars chat about neighbourhood affairs, and a map of Middle Earth adorns the wall. The walls feature vintage cameras, motorsport advertisements for motor oil and numerous sockets allowing patrons to plug in their three-pin chargers for laptops and depleting devices.

Moreton-in-Marsh (Image: John Keeble, Getty Images)
Based on conversations with two members of staff, the regulations stipulate that no single establishment can claim the title in consecutive years, meaning the Bell may find itself without honours this time around.
Nevertheless, the pub, which I selected after Google reviews indicated it offered excellent value, served a peppermint tea accompanied by fish and chips for a reasonable £12.50.
This followed a £3.90 cappuccino from Grouch Coffee, a nine year old enterprise near the local railway station that began life serving coffee from the rear of a Piaggio.

Moreton-in-Marsh on the day Christopher visited (Image: Christopher Sharp)
Fresh from a 100-mile journey in my cherished MINI, and despite my reservations about Allpress beans, it was evidently an integral fixture within the community.
The proprietor and staff engaged warmly with families while comedy posters and tea towels were scattered throughout the tastefully appointed café; a café situated in a town basking in spring sunshine.
Was the town picturesque? Certainly, bathed in surprisingly warm spring sunshine, it felt like somewhere one could do far more than merely pass through. It had the charm of a market town where breaking a long journey would prove a genuinely rewarding and uplifting experience.

Prue Leith lives in the town (Image: Getty)
Regarding the former Bake Off judge, I’d also enquired in Grouch whether Prue was frequently spotted around town, and the response was not particularly; though perhaps she passes through en route to the station to board the 1h 31m £32 15:54 train to London Paddington for an evening out.
Prue has opted to settle here, in a home she constructed with her husband John Playfair, and it appears to be a thoroughly pleasant town. Nevertheless, the most pressing question remains, ‘Should I go?’.
Absolutely. It would be a pru-dent choice.









