I love Christmas with its festive markets, ice skating and twinkling lights so when my husband suggested spending a few days during the holiday season in a typically sun-soaked European city, I was sceptical.

Madrid is known for scorching sunshine and tapas but what would it be like during Christmas? Could I expect decorations? glühwein and seasonal joy, or would it be a total letdown?

The first thing you notice about Madrid is that the elegant Spanish city brims with polished boulevards, grand architecture and vast parks trimmed to perfection, with the glorious Buen Retiro as its green showpiece. This historic city guards some of Europe’s greatest artistic treasures, and the popular Prado Museum steals the spotlight with Goya, Velázquez and a parade of Spanish masters that astonish.

Wander into old Hapsburg Madrid, and you reach Plaza Mayor, a handsome square framed by stately porticos that are buzzing from morning to night. A short stroll away, you’ll find the Royal Palace, a baroque spectacle whose armoury gleams with centuries of historic weaponry.

We had arrived right as the Christmas season was kicking off, and my expectations were middling. Once we checked into the flashy Hard Rock Hotel Madrid, we headed out to see whether Madrid truly played in the big yuletide leagues as far as Christmas markets are concerned.

Imagine my shocked reaction as we reached Gran Vía, the city’s grand boulevard, its opulent architecture, theatres, shops and restaurants blazed with a dazzling sweep of lights and festive finery.

Wander the swish streets, and you’ll spot LED displays, decorations and giant trees across multiple locations, like Gran Vía, the massive tree in Puerta del Sol, and festive markets in grand Plaza Mayor, with the lights running through early January, creating a feel-good atmosphere with markets, ice rinks, and artisan stalls.

A quick chat with obliging locals revealed the scale of it all. Around twelve million LED lights sparkle across the city, dressing garlands, glowing trees and nativity scenes that welcome crowds at the entrances to Plaza Mayor and Plaza de España. Twelve monumental Christmas trees rise from Madrid’s main squares.

Spending almost a week in the capital, I was surprised by how wholeheartedly Madrid throws itself into Christmas. Germany may be the heavyweight champion of festive markets, but I never expected the Spanish capital to lean in with such enthusiasm.

After all, Spain doesn’t really do Christmas in the Anglo-American style. Their main present-fest happens on January 6, when the Three Wise Men take over Santa’s job and hand out gifts instead of Klaus. According to my Spanish pals, Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, is the big family feast while Christmas Day itself is far calmer, more of a public holiday devoted to rest and long lunches. 

Madrid’s central Sol Plaza is the festive heart of the city’s holiday celebrations. It is also where most guided tours set off so if you fancy strolling round the capital with a pro who can fill you in on the history and point out all the festive decorations this is the perfect place to start.

The clock tower is where Spain officially rings in the new year, and the enormous Christmas tree in the plaza’s centre is one of Madrid’s most iconic sights.

Plaza Mayor Christmas Market is Madrid’s annual proof that it can do Christmas just as loud, bright and expensive as anywhere in Northern Europe. Each winter, the cherry red square fills with more than 100 red wooden huts, all lined up with the precision of a military parade. Inside, vendors peddle Nativity figures, ornaments, toys, and joke gifts you regret buying the moment you get them home.

The market runs from late November to the end of December, long enough to empty your wallet and still leave you wanting one more ceramic Mary. The whole thing is run by the Plaza Mayor Christmas Market Association and is a century-old institution, and locals treat it like cultural heritage. It has 104 stalls.

The market began in the seventeenth century in the nearby Plaza de Santa Cruz, where traders sold fruit, vegetables and holiday odds and ends. Two hundred years later, the authorities finally legalised it, probably because it had grown too large to ignore. Plaza Mayor became the place for Nativity sets and toys, while Santa Cruz handled sweets and turkeys.

Today, the whole festive circus sits in Plaza Mayor, in wholesome red huts renovated in the 1980s. Santa Cruz now hosts a vintage carousel that spins until early January.

Madrid turns itself into a full Christmas hub each December, running events for every age group, including couples like us on a grown-up festive break.

Wander a few blocks, and you will stumble across a Nativity scene large enough to qualify for planning permission with Mary and Joseph looking serene, shepherds loitering, angels hovering and the three wise men pursuing the star of Bethlehem with the determination of men who refuse to ask for directions.

Anyone in the mood to shop until their Mastercard emits smoke should head for Puerta del Sol, Gran Vía, Plaza Mayor or Plaza del Callao. Every shop you could possibly need sits in that square mile of incredible architecture and fancy boutiques.

The three wise men and Santa Claus also appear, usually at the exact moment a child begins to fidget or scream for the iPad. They collect letters, grant wishes and create queueing systems that defy human logic. Calle del Maestro Victoria hosts the annual Cortylandia show, which keeps children riveted and adults quietly questioning their life choices.

Festive entertainment flourishes across the city. Theatres and cultural centres wheel out feel-good concerts, gospel performances and full-blown Christmas productions. Teatro Real stages its New Year’s concert, and Circo Price unveils its seasonal spectacle.

Over in Plaza de España, there is a 600-square-metre ice rink installed each Christmas, part of a shiny new enclave called La Navideña, complete with a craft fair and food stalls, but sadly no bar, it seems. Boo.

It runs from late November to mid-January and draws crowds who apparently enjoy watching strangers cling to the railings with fear in their eyes.

I decided to skate, largely because the surroundings were festive and I fancied a triumphant return to the ice. That fantasy lasted about three minutes.

The bright orange rented skates were so flimsy they felt like they were designed by someone who had only read about ice in a book. Any hope of channelling my inner ice-dancing queen evaporated as I wobbled about like a newly born Bambi. Still, admission and the compulsory gloves cost only €11.50, so at least Madrid isn’t actively mugging you for the privilege. London, take note.

Food-wise, I couldn’t find my favourite festive indulgence, bratwurst, but there is plenty of hot chocolate with churros, roasted chestnuts and turrón (nougat) to sustain you.

My advice? Forget the hunt for “Christmas food”. Madrid does seasonal treats well enough, but I recommend heading straight to Madrid’s star attraction, the Mercado de San Miguel, and let the city feed you properly. 

Draped in lights and packed to the rafters, this is the capital’s gastro, iron-and-glass temple, where locals and tourists perch on any available ledge and inhale pricey tapas and wines and caña (small beer).

More than a hundred years have passed since this building opened its doors as a simple market. Time has turned it into a global gastronomic heavyweight attracting 7 million visitors a year.

We visited no less than three times during our trip and feasted on cheese platters, tortilla española (egg and potato omelette), croquetas, jamón, and a cone of chorizo that my husband admitted he spent €19 on. He is no longer allowed access to our bank card for his own safety.

Anyone chasing a more local vibe should skip the tourist crush at Mercado de San Miguel and head straight for Vallehermoso Market. Prices are sane, the food is excellent, and nobody tries to sell you a five-euro olive.

Vallehermoso has stood here since 1930, when its design was considered daring rather than simply sturdy. The façade is a cheerful riot of colour and sits on the corner of Vallehermoso and Fernando el Católico. A major 2017 revamp added a permanent farmers’ market and gave the whole place a fresh burst of energy.

Inside, the stalls cover every edible category. Butchers slice with purpose. Fishmongers fling ice around like confetti. Grocers stack produce with unsettling precision. There are creameries, bakeries, poulterers and specialist shops brimming with Italian treats, spices and tea.

The ground floor houses the Farmers’ Gallery, a cluster of small artisan businesses selling environmentally responsible food made by people who genuinely care about what they’re doing. You can pop in for a quick caña, nibble a few tapas or sit down for a full meal.

I chose cava. Several glasses of it. Alongside that came an indulgent porchetta sandwich so good it now lives rent-free in my mind. I mention it to strangers, friends and anyone trapped beside me in a queue. Frankly, it changed me.

After an entire day of eating and gawking at Madrid’s Christmas lights, you’ll need somewhere to collapse. A cutesy Airbnb might look tempting, but if you’re visiting at the most wonderful time of year, you want a hotel that actually does the holiday season right.

Something with swagger, attitude, and a hint of Americana, because let’s face it, no one does jolly holly Christmas quite like the Americans. The swish Hard Rock Hotel Madrid ticks all these boxes, and I’m here for it.

The Hard Rock International brand, founded in 1971, includes theme bar-restaurants, retail outlets, casinos, hotels, and more. I was actually obsessed with all things Hard Rock as a kid. The memorabilia, the sense of rock-and-roll omnipotence, the sheer unapologetic Americana.

I never actually stayed at a Hard Rock property, though; my family were Sun Holiday, caravan-in-Cornwall types. So staying at a Hard Rock property is fulfilling all my childhood dreams. My husband, a music and audio producer, was also in his element.

From the Thanksgiving weekend celebrations to the Roxy Garden Christmas Market and a calendar of live music, creative workshops, and festive feasts, the Hard Rock goes full holiday mode. This isn’t “hang a bauble on the radiator and call it Christmas” — it’s highly curated and leans fully into its musical origins.

Among the twinkling trees and decs, the standout feature is the massive architectural guitar sculpture that hangs above the welcoming lobby and bar area.

Keep your eye out for music memorabilia from proper rock and pop gods, like guitars and setlists from icons like Beyoncé, Bowie, Lady Gaga, and Prince. 

Common areas face a surprisingly large back space with a pool, garden, and Body Rock fitness centre, for all your wellness needs. A life-size pink “Las Meninas” plastered with Rosalía lyrics stares you down, and the GMT+1 bar is adorned with a La Movida Madrileña mural by a local graffiti artist.

Spanish legends (El Canto del Loco, Hombres G) mingle with denim Elvis outfits and Bowie’s platform boots. Yes, those are real, and yes, you’ll feel your inner 12-year-old swoon.

The Atocha location couldn’t be more central, a stone’s throw from the Reina Sofía and the Golden Triangle of Art. Yet, from the rooftop terrace or suites with private terraces, you can survey the city like a benevolent rock god.

Practice yoga in-room with the Rock Om® program, sip cocktails in the atrium, or hit the gym for your smug #fitness selfies. Twenty minutes to Puerta del Sol and you’re back in the tourist fray; within the hotel, you can be a superstar, even if only for 48 hours.

Food-wise, the on-site Sessions restaurant offers a weekly menu that flirts with American comfort and Spanish flair. Josper-grilled Iberian pork, tempura cod, and burgers that could double as cushions. Brunch is also a professional sport.

We opted for their new offering, the American Way of Brunch. This gut-busting feast begins with a baker’s basket of cookies, doughnuts, muffins, cereal, and peanut butter and jelly toast before the main event. Thank god I wore the stretchy leggings, it was time for professional easing.

Pancakes the size of our heads arrived, loaded with bacon, scrambled and decorative berries to prove you’re still vaguely healthy, and a Texas cheeseburger for balance. Then there is a selection of puddings to round things off. This is not a brunch for amateurs; come hungry.

The Hard Rock’s events calendar is impressive, with a roster of live gigs in the expansive atrium, where you can sip crafted cocktails while watching talented singers.

When we were visiting, the hotel had a special Holiday season event that I was very curious about – A Thanksgiving dinner. I’d never had a Thanksgiving dinner before. Not once. So why not have my first one in Spain?

After all, a lifetime of watching Americans celebrate it on TV had left me with only the vaguest idea of what the day actually involves. Mostly food, from what I can gather.

Madrid has already adopted Halloween and Santa, so it seemed only fair to join the city’s ongoing campaign to absorb every American holiday going. A rock-and-roll Thanksgiving in Atocha? Sign me up.

The set menu features classic Thanksgiving fare served family-style, including roasted turkey, gravy, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, sweet potato puree, green beans, stuffing, and pumpkin pie for dessert.

Thanksgiving itself is a funny tradition when you’re experiencing it for the first time. From the British perspective, it appears to be a day officially dedicated to gratitude but unofficially dedicated to eating as much as possible. As introductions go, this was a strong one, and I think I’m a full-blown convert.

Music is given its proper reverence here, as along with a stack of memorabilia, the hotel’s 161 rooms come with Hard Rock’s Sound of Your Stay experience. You can borrow Fender electric guitars and amps in-room, or pick up vinyl records and players to spin while they’re lounging. If you email ahead with your music tastes, the hotel will even set up a personalised Spotify playlist.

Rooms are sleek with stylish flourishes. The Sound of Your Stay® turns the space into a personal playlist paradise, with Fender guitars available for in-room jam sessions, vinyl spinning, and curated tracks to match the mood. Free Wi-Fi, minibars with Lavazza coffee, city views, and the occasional Bowie boot to gawp at.

I think the Hard Rock Hotel Madrid nails it: style, music, service. The staff can answer all your inane questions, yes, that really is Pink’s guitar, and you’ll feel like a swaggering rock star in the middle of Madrid. December rates start around €180 per night, though demand can nudge that up. Totally worth it for the memories.