I’ve travelled all over USA — very few have been here | America | Travel
A cemetery in the Arctic tundra on the outskirts of Utqiagvik, with simple white crosses (Image: Getty Images)
The USA is the third most-visited country in the world, behind Spain and France, taking in around 67 million tourists each year. Of these visitors, most head to New York, followed by Florida, California, Hawaii and Nevada (the home of Las Vegas).
Compared to those numbers, almost no one goes to the USA’s least-visited state, Alaska, which is both the biggest state and the least densely populated.
You could fit the entire UK into it seven times, yet its population is only around 730,000 (about the same as the number of people who live in the area around Sheffield) so there are vast parts of its mountain peaks, huge forests and glacial landscapes where you won’t see another soul.
But even within Alaska, there’s remote and then there’s remote. For example, around 290,000 people live in its largest city, Anchorage, where there’s an international airport and pretty much any modern convenience and chain store brand you’d expect to find in any American city of comparable size.
Alaska’s south-eastern coast, meanwhile, is a popular cruise ship destination, thanks to the stunning scenery and wildlife on show, from humpback whales to Orcas, and sea lions to otters. Further inland, Alaska is home to bears, moose, caribou and wolves.
The only way to get to Utqiagvik, on the northern shores of Alaska, is to fly (Image: Getty Images)
The vast majority of Alaska’s population is centred around a small part of its southern coast. But I am one of the few tourists who decided to go to its northern coast, deep within the Arctic circle.
Here are some mind-blowing things you need to know about the town of Utqiagvik in Alaska (which was formerly known as Barrow):
- No roads lead there — the only way to get to Utqiagvik is to fly
- The sun doesn’t set for two months in summer
- When the sun sets in mid-November, it doesn’t rise again for 65 days
- Alcohol is banned
- The average summer temperature is around 8C or 47F
- Polar bears roam around the edges of the town
- You can walk on the frozen Arctic Ocean (but watch out for those polar bears).
An upside down umiaq (boat) on the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean signaling an unsucessful whale hunt for the spring (Image: Getty Images)
Despite these harsh conditions, more than 4,000 people live in Utqiagvik, disconnected from the rest of the world and 320 miles north of the Arctic circle. Many of them make a living hunting whales, fish and other animals, while deadly polar bears also call the area home.
When I visited, two members of the Inupiat tribe, a group of people native to Alaska who have called this place home for at least 1,500 years, took me out in a pick-up truck looking for some. We didn’t see any, but we did find their gigantic paw prints in the snow.
Afterwards, I sat on the shores of the Arctic Ocean (which was completely frozen, I could see no water at all) and stared out at the sun, which was still hovering above the horizon despite it being after 10pm. It was an incredible experience.
The small homes in the city of Utqiagvik (Image: Getty Images)
The ribs of a bowhead whale — whaling is important in this community (Image: Getty Images)
How to get to Utqiagvik, Alaska
The only way to get here is to fly. A round trip from Anchorage, the largest city in Alaska, takes a little less than two hours and costs £300.
The flight departs from Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC) and lands at Wiley Post-Will Rogers Memorial Airport.
It’s a relatively short flight on a small plane and the views from the aircraft windows are truly beautiful, going over the vast open space of Alaska and also flying over the Alaska Mountain Range.
Brightly painted houses with snow drifts against them (Image: Getty Images)
Things to do in Utqiagvik, Alaska
Barrow is the largest city of the North Slope Borough in the U.S. state of Alaska and is located north of the Arctic Circle. It is one of the northernmost public communities in the world (Image: Getty Images)
Although it is remote, there are hotels and restaurants, a school, food stores, a library and a post office. There is also plenty to fill your days.
Take a tour over the ice and tundra: Tundra Tours is Inupiat owned and operated. A “day tour” takes place during the summer season from mid-May to mid-September, running from 10am-2pm and heading out by truck and foot over the tundra, stopping at ancient sod huts, the much-photographed whalebone arches and the and the Inupiat Heritage Centre, all the while keeping an eye out for wildlife.
Inupiat Heritage Centre: The centre promotes Inupiat history, language and culture and aims to foster the awareness, understanding and appreciation of the Inupiat way of life.
Enjoy the sun – at midnight: The sun doesn’t set for roughly two months from June. So you can sit outside, wrapped up warm, and marvel at the midnight sun.
Swim in the Arctic Ocean: Whether you just dip in your toe or go for the full body submersion, very few people can say they’ve been in the Arctic Ocean. And if you’ve come all this way, it’d be daft not to. You can do it right next to the Top of the World Hotel (see below).
Where to stay and eat in Utqiagvik, Alaska
A cemetery of simple white crosses on the outskirts of the town but this time covered in snow (Image: Getty Images)
Top of the World Hotel: This hotel has 70 rooms, some with ocean views, and 24-hour service. It also has a restaurant, Niggivikput, on site, serving American food. Rated 4/5 on TripAdvisor.
King Eider Inn: Furnished in pine log furniture, with a private sauna room, complimentary wireless Internet, a cozy lobby fireplace, and wheelchair accessible rooms. It is rated 4.5/5 on TripAdvisor.
Latitude 71: You can get a king suite with a private bath from $400 per night. Rated 5/5 on TripAdvisor.
Niggivikput: This restaurant is within the Top of the World Hotel and serves all-day pancake breakfasts, biscuits and gravy, as well as burgers, salads and sandwiches.
Sam and Lee’s Restaurant: Serves Chinese and Japanese food. One visitor said: “The restaurant has a real family feel to it.”
East Coast Pizza: Serves “a good variety of pies”, according to one TripAdvisor reviewer.